Sarajevo Sevdah & Music Nights

Beyond the big festivals, sevdah — the soulful traditional song of Bosnia — is performed live year-round at kafanas and venues like Kino Bosna. The emotional core of Bosnian music culture.

Why: hauntingly beautiful live music; deeply local.

Tip: ask locals which kafana has sevdah that night — Kino Bosna's early-week nights are the classic.